Every year more of our local craft brewers don the lederhosen and kick out a kiwi version of a Munich Festbier. Historically, the results have been mixed… NZ malt and even more so our hops just don’t mesh well with the peerlessly smooth, crisp and understated character of fresh German lager. But they have been steadily improving, and by my reckoning ‘Chur-Toberfest’ from Auckland’s Behemoth Brewery has nailed it this year. The blend of Pilsner, Munich and Vienna malts deliver an immaculate weight and structure that’s both smooth drinking and characterfully crunchy at the same time, while the German Hallertau Blanc hops lend a subtle freshness, lift and essential bitterness. Behemoth’s own house lager strain is obviously working some magic too, and the conditioning is top notch. My only complaint: It needs to come in bigger cans, and I’m talking a litre here if we’re really doing it right… but, at around $5 for the 440ml there’s really not much standing in the way of having as much as you like. Remember: If your stein is not playing music, it’s not big enough.
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