Back in the early 1900s, Whanganui wasn’t just lively as New Zealand’s 5th largest city — it was one of Aotearoa’s great beer strongholds, proudly home to 13 breweries. Thirteen! Then came decades of closures, mergers, and the lure of jobs elsewhere, and one by one the brewhouses fizzed out. By 1960, the last holdout — Western Brewery — was absorbed by Lion and promptly shuttered, with production shipped off to Palmerston North. And just like that, Whanganui went from beer capital to beer desert.
Fast‑forward 57 parched years to 2018, when something bright, bold, and unmistakably orange appeared on SH3: Roots Brewing. Powered almost entirely by one man — Andy Henshaw — it’s equal parts passion project, DIY empire, and neighbourhood hangout. Andy is the brewer, manager, forklift whisperer, keg-wrangler, and front‑of‑house host who greeted me with a Roots Chopper Hopper IPA so good I briefly considered moving to Whanganui.
Raised locally and seasoned through years of homebrewing escapades, Andy took a punt on leasing a derelict old cheese factory in Westmere, five minutes north of Whanganui’s suburban boundary. Yes, a cheese factory… and yes, it looked exactly as dairy‑haunted as you’re imagining. Before any brewing could begin, Andy and his wife Jess had to answer the first big question: “What do we even call this place?” A few locals suggested names like Derelict and Abandoned could be used (not knowing they were already in use elsewhere!) given the state of the old factory, but it was never in doubt to go with ‘Roots’ — a nod to their connection to Whanganui’s maunga and awa — their own roots.
Branding came next, Andy drawing beer labels alongside his young kids drawing mermaids and unicorns, each deep in their fantasy worlds, and then crucially the three-hour label inspiration “research” trip through the local supermarket beer and wine aisle which nearly got Andy kicked out — apparently staring at labels with intense artistic focus raises suspicion with security! Slick brand work followed, and the distinct orange building showcases the brand with the clean labels seen on the tight range of seven beers available in 500ml bottles at the brewery.
Roots Brewing is, by their own definition, a small family-owned brewery crafting delicious beers in a traditional manner but with an innovative style. Roots operates on an off‑licence for now, though Andy is working hard on securing an on‑licence for the 2026-27 summer. After eight years of consistent growth — including muscling through COVID‑19 — a quieter 2025 gave him space to refine quality, tighten distribution, and dial in his brewing process.
With a 600‑litre kit and a 100‑litre pilot system, Roots has become a go‑to brewer for event‑specific beers. Andy is a driving force behind the returning Whanganui Beer Festival in March 2026, and he recently brewed a special release for the 74th Boxing Day Cemetery Circuit Motorcycle Event. A personal highlight: a Kölsch‑style beer he created for a local family’s German‑heritage wedding. Traditional rules say Kölsch must be brewed within sight of the Cologne Cathedral — so Andy taped a photo of the cathedral to the fermenter. Honestly? Flawless loophole execution. The family’s verdict: “It tasted like home.”
Experimentation sits at the heart of Roots with Andy keeping his homebrewer spirit alive through his work. His ongoing experiments include Belgian styles, fruit‑forward brews, and creations featuring local walnuts, apples, and coffee. Then there’s the cider — a wild‑fermented adventure that starts at 4C, conditions for six months, and matures for two years. Andy’s dad has even become the official zesting expert for experimental citrus batches, a role I suspect he brags about at family events. Along the way, Roots has picked up five Brewers Guild medals, proving these aren’t just experiments — they’re winners.
Even the building brings legacy: the cheese once produced there earned three World Championship titles in the early 1900s. No pressure, then. But Andy embraces Roots’ size and agility. As he puts it, “We can do weird stuff. We don’t have to sell lots per batch, and that allows winners to be found.” Some of those experiments have included barrel‑aged beauties, ancient‑style gruits, and even a smoked‑meat‑inspired beer. Wild ideas, yes — but grounded in balance and flavour. As Andy often says, gimmicks alone don’t make the cut.
Roots Brewing is exactly what its name implies: grounded, connected, and full of personality. Andy is the kind of host who makes you feel like you’ve wandered into a mate’s garage — if that garage just happened to turn out award‑winning beer.
If you’re passing through Whanganui, or cruising north on State Highway 3, it’s absolutely worth stopping in. And with a taproom on track for late 2026, the promise of fresh beer, pizza, and burgers means the future looks bright, busy, and delicious.
Follow Brendan Holland’s bid to visit every brewery in New Zealand @theh0ptimist on Instagram