Food-centric Jackson Street — the thumping main artery heart of vibrant Petone — is now officially a craft beer destination™.
For those who don’t know it, Petone is the fulcrum between the capital and Hutt Valley — not quite Welly, not too Hutty — and always with a personality of its own.
If you were drawing parallels to Auckland, Petone is a mix of Ponsonby and K Road, with its historic Edwardian-era buildings; colourful diversity of people, ages and cultures; mix of industrial, suburban and urban. Equal parts bougie and old-school Kiwi.
It was the original Wellington before Wellington — and could have become the capital, were it not for the Hutt River. Early colonial settlers set anchor, set up sticks, and began naming streets before realising the area was a bit floody (chur, Hutt River). Hence, a move to the other side of the harbour, where the street naming process began from scratch. Short on originality, names were recycled, so you’ll find a double-up of streets — Cuba, Victoria and Tory — on both sides of the harbour. (Uber passengers, you’ve been warned.)
Before that, local iwi, Te Āti Awa, called it Pito-One, a proverbial breadbasket and thriving whenua where kai was plentiful, sourced and grown.
In modern times, Pito One/Petone has continued that food rep. Its main artery, Jackson Street, is non-stop dropped pins of independent cafes, restaurants, bars, boutiques, shops and grocers — with 60-plus eateries in 800 metres according to the Hutt City Council website.
It’s kind of what you wish Wellington still was. The general mood is relaxed; light on chain stores, big-city aspirations and big-city problems. A hyper-local community with independent businesses and suburbia sharing the doorstep. Locals are friendly as they go about their day, passing one another with smiles and waves.
And — at the risk of Wellington City Council spotting this — parking is free. You can’t help but see the difference this makes to businesses.
But until now, the craft beer scene — rampant in the Craft Beer Capital catchment — has largely evaded Petone. Bar the staunch presence of Sprig & Fern Petone on Jackson Street, previous craft bars have come and gone… until now.
With Baylands Brewery opening its taproom just off Jackson St in 2022 and Abandoned Brewery recently kicking open the doors of its Petone taproom this year, the suburb is officially a craft beer destination™.
“Now there’s this community of craft, it becomes more of a terminus,” says Tim Ward, owner and founder of Abandoned.
The proximity of these Petone craft spots is a huge part of the appeal. You don’t feel hemmed in despite its compact borders. A stroll from one to the other takes you less than five minutes in any direction.
Each has a unique personality and you’ll want to make friends with all of them.
Abandoned Brewing Petone
Tim Ward was eyeballing the site on the corner of Jackson and Fitzherbert Streets for at least five years. It was perfect for something… he just didn’t know what.
Previously it was occupied by beloved specialty grocer, On Trays, and its in-house deli, Scheckter’s, which lured Wellingtonians from all corners of the region with its deli sammies (including the highly sought-after Reuben).
Before we continue, if you’re not familiar with Abandoned’s anarchic history of pushing boundaries, here’s a brief history: the brewery has a rap sheet that’d make the legal department of a large corporate brewery quake in their standard-issue grey suits.
Abandoned’s notorious headlines include a cease-and-desist from Waste Management, when the brewery poured beers from one of Waste Management’s branded, repurposed, tapped-up skip bins at Beervana. Another year, they poured beers from a homemade, dystopian nuclear power plant control panel. In another, it screen-printed scribbled Abandoned tags over t-shirts sporting traditional NZ beer logos (they sold out). At Fortune Favours’ Rare Beer Challenge, which raises money for rare disorders, Abandoned was “inspired by” Monster Energy drink, using it as an ingredient, further ruffling corporate feathers and warranting another legal finger-wag.
Tim admits the brewery — known for its audacious approach — has never shied away from the unconventional.
So, jump back to 2022, when Steven Scheckter downsized his business, closing the deli and moving his shop to Johnsonville. Tim saw the opportunity. He bags-ed the corner spot and set about making Abandoned feel right at home in Petone.
When the taproom — a stark white monolith, tagged with a massive, blazing red “A”, now synonymous with the brewery — appeared last February, it wasn’t uncommon to see cars on Fitzherbert Street doing a slow drive-by to rubberneck the new neighbour. (It happened no less than four times in the half hour I was there.)
This is somewhat of a homecoming for Abandoned. The original brewery was in the Hutt, and though it has a small taproom in Titahi Bay, Tim always wanted Abandoned to get back to its roots on the other side of the Haywards.
“Petone has an incredible line-up of food and drink; it was always our intention to return. We’re genuinely excited to join our esteemed neighbours, Baylands and Sprig & Fern, in continuing to build a connected craft beer community here,” he says.
Characteristically, Abandoned Petone’s taproom walls are tattooed with an explosion of graffiti, covertly finessed by underground Wellington street artist, Pork.
“It’s kind of like meeting up and kicking back with friends in a hidden escape under a heavily graffitied bridge,” says Tim.
“The space and beer is all about embracing the imperfect, the mismatched and downright unconventional. An anecdote to the mundane.”
What looks like an old Tuatara-branded fridge in the corner has “Abandoned” spray painted over the old logo. The taplist consists of beers scribbled on torn slabs of cardboard, haphazardly plastered to the wall. In the corner, DJ turntables are cloaked by a familiar-looking nuclear power plant control panel…This isn’t a disingenuous dive gussied up to look the part, and it has the homely, grungy feel of one.
On a Monday — currently the quietest day for hospo — there’s a steady stream walking in and out: from Gen Z to Boomers, corporates, tradies, foodies, families and retirees. Many seek Abandoned’s deli-inspired menu, an homage to the previous tenant. Stacked sandwiches — including those famous Reubens — ensure Wellingtonians are travelling here for their deli hit. Abandoned received blessings from Steven to recreate his Reuben on the condition the ingredients were sourced from the same local suppliers and made exactly to the recipe.
Behind the bar, manning the 16 taps, is general manager Leroy Paton-Goldsbury. Don’t let the fresh face fool you — he is old-hat hospo.
“We’re trying to destigmatise the perceived complexity and high knowledge around craft beer. Hopefully, that helps build on the current craft market here in Petone as people become more familiar with the styles,” he says, acknowledging taps labelled — literally — with what’s pouring: “Kölsch”; “Pale Ale”; “Stout”; “Hazy”.
And with Leroy and Tim’s pedigrees in the local music scene (Leroy has a music degree majoring in jazz piano from Vic Uni; Tim’s been a music promoter for donkey’s years), the taproom will also serve as a destination for music lovers, with a programme of regular live music and DJ acts as well as live comedy on the way.
Top Three: Hazies are still a go-to, with the Hazy IPA #17 (5.0% ABV) proving a favourite;Fresh Hop Pilsner (5.0% ABV and graffiti artist, Pork, also did the can art); Kölsch (4.7% ABV).
Kai: Whilst both beers and venue kick tradition to the curb, the menu is a very anti-Abandoned nod to tradition with a culinary call back to the site’s past. Deli sandwiches, fried deli pickles, and charcuterie boards, reminiscent of Schecker’s grocery. Dietary requirements are embraced and takeaway is available for those on the lam. The Reuben (rightfully) has a lot of hype, but the chicken salad sammie with dipping gravy on the side is extreme “chef’s kiss”. And whatever they sprinkle on their fries can only be described as “chip crack”, leaving you jonesing for more.
Why go: Atmosphere+, distance-worthy menu, dog-friendly, prime sun-trap, music venue, chess + music nights, comfort-meets-cool.
Craft Community: Plans to support Petone’s community are in motion, but next door neighbour, Te Omanga Hospice (head office and charity shop), has already had Abandoned’s support for charity events.
Baylands Brewery
Baylands has been a Petone stalwart since the early days of Wellington’s craft beer scene.
In 2014, owner, founder and head brewer, Aidan Styles, moved the 300L brew kit from his garage on Baylands Drive in Newlands into what was half of Baylands’ current site in Petone’s industrial area of Victoria Street (one of those “double up streets” from back in the day).
“We chose Petone for its diversity in food and people. It has great access to the Hutt, and it’s easy to get here from the city by car, cycle, or a 10-minute ride on the bus or train,” he says.
“We also get loads of cyclists in from the city. Once that city to Hutt cycle lane goes in, we suspect we’ll see a lot more, so we’re looking forward to that.”
Baylands’ first on-site iteration was a homebrew store with four takeaway taps.
“Those taps grew to eight, then 24,” says Aidan. “Eventually, we did away with the homebrew supplies and just made beer.”
In those halcyon days, otherwise known as “pre-Covid”, Aidan had the option of taking over the remaining half of the building from the previous tenant of 50 years. Duly gutted and given a proper glow-up, it opened in time for Christmas 2022.
Now, Baylands is the right combo of craft-meets-sports bar with 31 taps, a couple of big screen televisions, a full kitchen and a large private function space. Thanks to the space and big tables, it’s a great spot for groups and families.
It also has the honour of being Petone’s only taproom with an onsite brewery, brewing with natural spring water from ancient underground artesian wells only available to locals on that side of the harbour.
And that 30L brew kit? It’s now 2500L, churning out 150,000 litres per year.
Top Three Crowd Faves: Baylands’ OG drops are big sellers: the aptly-named-for-this-article, Petone Pale Ale (4.8% ABV); Woodrow’s Veto West Coast American IPA (6.8% ABV); Offshore Bandit Hazy Pale Ale (5.5% ABV).
Kai: American BBQ-style fare: fried chicken, burgers, slow-cooked meats, tacos, mac ‘n’ cheese bites. The menu is extremely well-rounded and moreish, caters for all dietary tastes and requirements and features weekly specials “to mix it up for our regulars”. And they do takeaway!
Why go: Aside from the 31 taps? There’s big screen TVs for sport it in all forms. There’s a solid music programme with live music and DJs every Sunday (“Teeps, our bar manager, works in the music industry, so it’s all in his hands!”), and a pub quiz every second Wednesday. Additionally, there’s a that private function space for your next celebratory shindig.
Craft community: Baylands were one of the first Welly breweries to do karma kegs (where all proceeds of keg sales go towards a chosen charity) long before its brewery existed. “We’re going to restart that programme again at the taproom, so keep an eye out.”
Sprig & Fern Petone
While Baylands has been in the neighbourhood for a while, think of Sprig & Fern Petone as the early settler of craft beer in the area — and tavern owner Ian Wasson as one of the first off the craft beer boat.
He’s proudly “career hospo”. After a 12-year stint in Aussie and UK, this Hutt boy returned home in 2012, pouring pints at Sprig Petone not long after it opened its doors. In 2017, he was looking to buy a business and the owners were looking to sell. It was a no-brainer, and he’s been at the helm since.
“Growing up in the Hutt, I remember the Petone pub scene as rough. Coming back, it was incredible to see how much the beer scene had changed and improved. It was a vibrant community and hospo scene — that’s why we’re still here,” he says.
With 20 taps, circulating Sprig & Fern’s core range and seasonal releases, Ian says Sprig Petone has become a solid community of craft lovers, locals and regulars thanks to its spacious layout, dotted with nooks and corners in which to perch, and warm, cosy and welcoming atmosphere. There’s an outdoor area (sectioned off for small private functions), and fireplaces, indoors and out.
“The bar was set up to be inviting and comfortable — an extension of your living room. Somewhere you can curl up with a book or park up with your mates for hours. It’s important to us that everyone feels welcome.”
He says they’re lucky to have a big core of regulars who support them through thick and thin, seven days a week.
“It’s built a community unto itself over the years. People that didn’t know each other before, are now old friends and come here to meet all the time. We have lots of local businesses, meetings and after-work drinks.
“We have one regular who comes out a couple of times a week from Island Bay to sit in the corner with a book over a couple of pints. We often get a few regulars from corners of the city that you wouldn’t expect!”
Top Three Crowd Faves: Fern Low Carb Lager (4.0% ABV); Chasing Hazy (5.2% ABV); Grown Up Ginger Beer (4.0% ABV plus there’s a non-alc version for kids and abstaining big kids).
Kai: A simple menu of pizzas and bar snacks but, uniquely, Sprig Petone has a BYO kai option. “It means people can hop out to one of the amazing restaurants, cafes or bakeries nearby, and bring it here to enjoy with a beer. It’s a great way of supporting other local businesses, and changes things up for our regulars who come week after week.”
Why go: The epic pub quiz every Tuesday goes off. “It’s bigger than it’s ever been, and is consistently one of our busiest nights of the week,” says Ian. Live music on Saturdays; but the live DJs on Fridays have spawned a very special community: “Out of that came our Vinyl Club. Every Sunday, we have regulars who come in with their own records and hop onto the decks to spin them.”
Craft community: All proceeds of entry fees to Sprig Petone’s quiz nights and raffles go to a chosen charity every month. Says Ian: “Last month was Big Brothers & Big Sisters; next will be Greyhounds As Pets. They get every cent of profits raised over the month. Last year, we raised $24,000 in all for charities.”