Now here’s a saison with all the trimmings. Fermented with a mix of Brettanomyces and conventional Saccharomyces, then aged for a full year in ex-bourbon oak. The wood is hugely expressive on the nose, casting a layer of spicy vanilla and buttered popcorn over the sharp lemon citrus and subtle brett funk. Initially gentle and curiously light-bodied (6.2 per cent), the palate has more citrus and a light drying tartness. The flavors gently unravel into the finish, revealing oak tannin and char alongside citrus blossom and elderflower. Big, long and complex; possessing many of the esoteric flavors present in barrel-aged sours without any particular sourness of its own. A great one to take one’s time with and really get into that complexity. Just make sure that bottle is fully settled out and decant carefully; there’s heavy yeast sediment here and too much in the glass will dominate the flavour.